Choice of stitching
There are several methods for sewing the leather wallet:
- By hand using the saddle stitch
This method produces very precise results and is ideal for this type of project. The saddle stitch is particularly popular with leather enthusiasts because it is the strongest and most durable stitch.
- By hand using simplified stitching (pre-punched holes)
Simplified hand stitching involves punching the stitching holes using a round strike-off punch. This technique, which uses straight stitches, is perfect for beginners because it is easier to do while still looking neat.
VIEW THE PRE-PUNCHED HOLE STITCHING GUIDE
- Using an industrial sewing machine
For those who prefer machine sewing, it is recommended to use an industrial sewing machine, especially with vegetable-tanned leather. This method is the fastest, but you must pay attention to the thickness of the leather and the machine's capacity to handle it.
If industrial machine sewing is chosen for the vegetable-tanned leather, the final stitch will need to be done by hand. Indeed, this final stitch is difficult to do even with an industrial machine due to the thickness and stiffness of the leather.
Also note that machine sewing can leave marks on vegetable-tanned leather.
Choice of leather
To make this wallet, it is recommended to choose leather that is semi-supple and semi-firm, or firm leather. There are two main types of tanning: vegetable and mineral.
You will also need two different thicknesses of leather:
- A thickness between 0.8 mm and 1 mm.
- A second, thinner one (mainly used for linings), around 0.5 mm.
Deco Cuir offers split leather pieces, perfect for this type of project.
Our selection: In this tutorial, we have selected the Satinlys leather range as the example for mineral-tanned leather. Satinlys leather is ideal for this project because it offers a good compromise between suppleness and firmness. We used 0.5 mm thick leather pieces for some parts and 0.8 mm pieces for others.
For the vegetable-tanned example, we chose leather from the Sauvage range with a thickness of 1 mm. Due to the thickness of this leather, we reserved it for part P1 (exterior). For all other parts, we opted for 0.5 mm thick natural vegetable-tanned leather.
Required materials
Mineral-tanned version:
- 3 pieces of SATINLYS OR VEAU NAPPA 20 x 30 cm - 0.5 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS OR VEAU NAPPA leather 30 x 40 cm - 0.8 mm thick
- 1 piece of SATINLYS OR VEAU NAPPA leather 15 x 20 cm - 0.8 mm thick
Cost: approximately €30.00
Vegetable-tanned version:
- 4 pieces of natural vegetable-tanned leather 20 x 30 cm - 0.5 mm thick
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1 piece of SAUVAGE vegetable-tanned leather 20 x 30 cm - 1 mm thick
Cost: approximately €45.00
Hand-sewing only version:
- 2 MeiSi super-fine waxed linen thread cards or 1 spool M40 - ⌀0.45 mm
- 2 saddle needles - Round Point - John James - ⌀0.80 mm (size 004)
- 1 dry point compass
- Strike-off prongs with 3.38 mm center-to-center spacing
- 1 block of wax
- 1 saddle pincers or a sewing valet
- 1 round awl
- 1 pincers awl
- 1 joiner hammer / riveting hammer
List of materials for all versions:
- 1 brass snap button - Ø 10.5 mm + its setting tool
- 1 precision leather rasp file - 4 mm
- 1 pot of neoprene glue
- 1 steel roller - Smooth roller for pressing leather - Ivan
- 1 square cutter - Deco Cuir
- 1 cutter 9 mm 30° STAINLESS STEEL blade
- Edge finishing: a pot of edge dye (for mineral-tanned leather) or Tokonole (for vegetable-tanned leather).
Obtain the pattern
The wallet pattern is for sale on our site (reference KA210). It is only available in digital format: a PDF to print in full size and assemble.
We recommend reproducing the pattern pieces on pattern cardboard.
Video
Part 1: cutting
1. Cut out and transfer the paper pattern
Cut out the pattern and then hold it, with masking tape or a weight, on the leather pieces while respecting the indicated thicknesses.
2. Cut out the pattern pieces
Cut out pieces P1 and P2 along the dotted lines of the pattern (cutting margins) before gluing them together and stitching over them.
Then, glue the two P1 pieces together, right sides together, using contact glue (here, neoprene).
Press the leather to flatten the glue well.
Then cut out the P1 piece pattern from this doubled rectangle.
Proceed with the same steps for pieces P2.
For the other pieces : cut out with a cutter following the lines of the pattern except for P4 and P7 (B), which must be cut along the dotted lines - cutting margins (these are lining pieces that will be trimmed).
For piece P2 (A) : mark the four blue dots of the pattern with a round awl. These markers will show where to glue the pocket in the following steps.
For piece P7 : use a round awl to make a light mark at the locations of the blue lines on the pattern. These markers will allow you to correctly glue the cardholder pockets (pieces P8).
Note: do not immediately punch the Ø3 mm hole for the snap button.
Part 2: the cardholder
3. Option: make decorative grooves
Make decorative grooves on the top of pieces P8 and P9, 1.5 mm from the edge.
For mineral-tanned leather:
The groove must be made hot, using a grooving iron.
For vegetable-tanned leather:
The groove can be made cold with a grooving tool, a dry point compass, or a grooving block… or hot with a grooving iron.
4. Work the edges
Work the edges of the top of pieces P8 and P9 (the length with the decorative groove). Use an edge dye for mineral-tanned leathers and Tokonole for vegetable-tanned leathers.
VIEW THE GROOVING IRON AND EDGE WORK GUIDE
5. Pare the corners
To avoid excess thickness at the cardholder, we recommend slightly paring the corners of pieces P8 and P9.
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6. Assemble the cardholder
To improve adhesion, rasp the grain of the leather on piece P7(a), at the level of the pink lines indicated on the pattern. Be careful not to scratch higher than the lines.
Glue the first piece P8 by applying glue to the bottom of the piece as well as to its two sides. Also apply contact glue to piece P7, 1.3 cm from the top.
See photo ⬇️
Glue piece P8 onto P7, making sure it is 1.3 cm from the top of piece P7.
Sew the bottom of piece P8 onto P7. Two options for stitching :
- Hand sewing using the saddle stitch
With a dry point compass, mark the stitching line 3 mm from the bottom edge of piece P8.
Mark the stitching points with a strike-off punch.
Sew using the saddle stitch.
VIEW THE SADDLE STITCH SEWING GUIDE
- Sewing with a sewing machine
To save time, you can sew this part with a sewing machine.
Do the same with the two other P8 pieces.
Glue piece P9 to the bottom of piece P7.
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7. Glue the second P7 piece and sew the right side of the cardholder
Once all parts are glued, take the second P7(b) piece. Glue the two P7 pieces together, right sides together, with contact glue.
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Backstitch.
Sew the right side of the cardholder (by hand or by machine).
Only sew the right side, as the other three sides will be sewn later during the final assembly of the wallet.
If sewing by hand:
Using a dry point compass, draw a line 3 mm from the edge of the right side of the piece.
Mark the stitch points with a stitching awl.
IMPORTANT : To avoid weakening the sides of the cardholder, make sure not to mark stitch points in the intervals. We recommend using a two-pronged awl and offsetting the points if necessary to position them properly between the different pockets of the cardholder.
Sew with a saddle stitch.
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8. Work the edge
Work the edge that has just been sewn. Backstitch if necessary, sand it, and apply an edge finish.
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9. Rasp the back
Turn the cardholder over and rasp the three remaining sides on the back of the cardholder. This will make gluing to piece P2 easier in the following steps.
Part 3: The coin purse
For those who never carry coins, you can make another cardholder side instead of a coin pocket.
10. Install the Ø10.5 MM snap button
There are 2 possibilities for installing the snap button:
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CHOICE 1: COVERED BUTTON
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CHOICE 2: HIDDEN BUTTON
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Choice 1: covered button
For a discreet and refined snap button, it can be covered with the same leather used for the wallet.
Here are the steps to follow:
1. Start by gluing the P4 lining to the designated spot on piece P3, right sides together. Then backstitch.
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2. Punch the Ø 3 mm holes in pieces P3/P4 as well as in piece P5.
3. Place the snap button post on piece P5.
4. Cut a small 5 x 5 cm leather square, with a maximum thickness of 0.5 mm. Apply contact cement to the back of this square.
5. Let the glue dry for a few moments, then lightly sand the snap button head to improve adhesion.
6. Place the snap button head in the center of the leather square, then fold the leather inside the snap button.
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7. With thread, wrap several turns around the snap button post to stretch the leather inside the snap button. Tighten very firmly and tie a knot.
Let the glue dry for several hours (or even a full day) to ensure a good bond.
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8. Once the glue is dry, use a cutter to trim the excess leather at the snap button head. With your fingernails, carefully fold the edges of the leather inside the snap button.
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9. Place the snap button in the designated spot on piece P3/P4.
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Choice 2: hidden button
For an invisible snap button, it can be hidden in the lining at the top of the pocket. Here are the steps to follow:
1. Start by punching the Ø 3 mm holes for the snap button on pieces P4 and P5 only. Ignore the hole on piece P3.
2. Place the snap button head on piece P5 (front of the pocket), with the domed part on the back of the leather.
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3. Then, place the snap button post on piece P4 only (flap lining).
11. Sew the flap lining
If you have opted for the snap button hidden in the lining (choice no. 2): glue the P4 lining to the designated spot on P3, right sides together. Then backstitch.
Using a dry point compass, draw the stitch line 3 mm from the edge on the top width and on the two lengths of piece P3, up to the end of the lining.
Mark the stitch points with a stitching awl, on the top width and the two lengths of piece P3, up to the end of the lining.
Reminder: always start by working the corners with a two-pronged awl: the rule is that the point located in the corner must always point towards the center of the piece. It is also possible to mark the corner with a round awl.
Sew these three lengths.
Next, sew the remaining line of the lining. Draw the line and mark the stitch points directly on the lining.
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Hammer the stitches using a joiner's hammer or a riveting hammer.
12. Round the corners
Using a cutter, break the upper corners of P3/P4.
Then, sand the edges with an abrasive sponge.
13. Rasp the back of the pocket
Using a rasp, sand the remaining lines (the ones not sewn) on the front of piece P3.
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14. Sew the rest of the pocket
Using a dry point compass, draw the stitch lines 3 mm from the edges of pieces P5 and P6.
Diagram of the lines where to draw the stitching:
Mark the stitch points on these same lines.
Here, we will double-prick the leather to sew the gussets onto piece P5. This will ensure a beautiful stitch on both sides of the leather (given the thinness of the pieces being assembled).
Note: for double-pricking, slightly enlarge the holes with a round awl, not a diamond awl. Be careful not to push the round awl too deeply, as this may cause the holes previously made with the pricking iron to burst.
Glue the P6 gussets to the sides of P5, 3 mm from the edge. Glue them together with the wrong sides facing each other.
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Then, sew these two lines.
15. Finish the edges
Sand and apply edge dye or Tokonole to all the edges of pieces P5 and P6.
16. Glue the front of the pocket to the back of the pocket
Once the edges of the front of the pocket are dry, apply contact cement to 3 mm of the non-backed sides of piece P3 (on the back of the leather / flesh side). Also apply glue to the unsewn lengths of the P6 gussets.
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Glue the front of the pocket P5+P6 to P3 and tap the glued area with a stitch hammer. To properly form the gussets, fold them before gluing. Refer to the photos below.
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17. Finish the edges
Finish the edges all around the pocket.
If this has not been done, make a decorative stitch around the front of the pocket (optional).
Part 4: The Interior
18. Prepare piece P2(a)
Using a compass with a 3 mm center-to-center spacing, draw the lines for the pocket placement on piece P2 (a), as indicated on the pattern.
On the inner line, mark the stitch points with a pricking iron.
Then, sand this area.
19. Glue the pocket to P2
On this same area, apply a thin layer of contact cement. Also apply glue to the sanded areas on the back of piece P3.
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Glue the pocket to piece P2(a) following the outer line drawn with the compass.
20. Sew the pocket
Sew the remaining lengths of the two gussets using double-pricking (use the round awl).
Then, sew the bottom line, making sure to catch the gussets in the stitch.
21. Glue the cardholder
Sand piece P2(a) where the cardholder will be glued (see the pink dashed lines on the pattern).
Then, apply contact cement to these three sides and to the three unsewn sides of the cardholder (on the area that was sanded in step n°9).
Glue the cardholder to piece P2. Flatten the glued area with a stitch hammer.
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22. Draw the stitch lines
Draw a line 3 mm from the edge all around piece P2, the cardholder, and the pocket. Be careful not to draw the stitch line on the area not to be sewn (the middle area).
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Note: as in step n°7, make sure the stitch points fall at regular intervals along the edges of the cardholders: use a two-prong pricking iron.
23. Optional: make the decorative stitch
For a professional finish: make a decorative stitch all around the piece.
24. Sew the top line of piece P2
For now, sew only the top line of piece P2.
25. Sand the back of P2
To make gluing piece P1 easier, sand the remaining 3 sides of piece P2(b).
Part 5: The Exterior
26. Sew the main piece
Take piece P1 (the large outer piece). Using a dry point compass, draw the stitch line 3 mm from the edge all around piece P1, except at the "Area not to be sewn" indicated on the pattern.
Using pricking irons, mark the stitch points all around piece P1, following the stitch line (except on the area not to be sewn).
Make a decorative stitch 1.5 mm from the edge all around piece P1.
Vegetable-tanned version: bevel the edges all around piece P1.
Sew only the top length of piece P1.
27. Finish the edge
Finish the edge of the length that has just been sewn. Sand it, then apply edge dye or Tokonole depending on the leather chosen.
28. Sand the leather
Using a sander, sand the leather (the interior, the lining) on the areas that will be glued next. That is: the two widths, then the bottom length of piece P1, except at the area not to be sewn.
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Part 6: Final sewing
29. Glue pieces P1 and P2
Apply contact cement to the areas that were sanded on piece P1 and piece P2(b). Be careful not to put glue on the area not to be sewn.
Glue the two pieces together.
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30. Sew pieces P1 and P2
The leather is already pricked on both sides, so all that remains is to sew it.
Hand-sewing version : note, you must use the double-pricking method (to get a beautiful stitch) : pierce the leather on both sides (with the same pricking irons) and then pierce the stitch points with a round awl (using a diamond awl would create cross stitches). Be careful not to sew the area indicated on the pattern.
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31. Final touches
Using a creasing tool or burnisher, mark the fold of the wallet to make it easier to close. Also mark the pockets of the cardholder to soften them, which will make it easier to insert the cards.
Tap the fold with a stitch hammer. Protect the leather with a cloth.
Slightly break the four corners with a utility knife. Then, sand them to create a nice rounded edge.
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Work the remaining edges.
Personalization
You can personalize your wallet with initials, a word, a logo... using hot stamping (vegetable and mineral tanning) or cold stamping (vegetable tanning only).
Congratulations, you're finished!
